Eyebrows are a sensitive subject for me. I was never blessed with full, dark brows – my brow hairs are black, yes, but sparse. I’m also a child of the 90s, which means I fell victim to the overplucked, Dietrich-thin brow that was so immensely popular in that decade.
As a result of over plucking for years, growing in my eyebrow hairs had been nearly impossible. I’m not sure if the follicles have become so damaged that they no longer can produce hair, but I simply can’t grow them. So, over the years, I’ve become something of a brow master. The brow is so important to the face, even if you’re not wearing makeup. I often wear no makeup, but I always do my brows.
And for ladies who have been blessed with good brows, it’s still important to groom them and use products like what I’m going to show you here in a sec. You certainly won’t need to use as much as I do, for instance, but a few simple swipes of a brow pencil can fill in any minutely sparse areas and take your brows to the next level.
Let me note that that is my technique, and it is based on my natural brow shape. This won’t work for every single person because everyone has differently shaped brows, but the basic technique is a good one.
I always do my brows first, before I apply primer or foundation. This is because I have oily skin, and if I use a waxy pencil over foundation-slick skin, my brows will rub off more easily. I start with very clean, dry skin.
The first step is to use a clear brow gel to comb through the brow hairs and separate them and smooth them out. I’m a huge fan of the Anastasia Beverly Hills brow product line. They are the best in my opinion.
The next product I use is the ABH Brow Wiz. Mine is in the shade dark brown. This is, hands down, the best brow pencil I’ve ever used. I use the spooly to give my brow hairs another brush-through.
Then, I trace a line on the top of my brow. I don’t start right at the front of my brow. The last thing you want is heavy, boxy-looking brows at the front; it should taper to a natural, light finish. Since my brows are very sparse, I create a line following the natural shape of my brows if I was able to grow hair there.
Use the spooly to blend the color, eliminating any harsh strokes and ensuring the product is evenly distributed through the brow. Also, blend backward toward the front where you didn’t apply any product for a natural faded look.
To set my brows, I use a tinted brow gel.mthis step is optional; you could use clear gel again. I just like the finishing touch the tinted gel gives. A little extra color adheres to the actual brow hairs to give them an enhanced, more defined look. I usually reserve this step until after I’ve applied foundation and powder, as sometimes powder can cling to my brow hairs. This step covers that up.
As with anything, practice makes perfect. A light hand, short strokes, and blending are the keys to a natural looking brow that’s full and nicely shaped.